Ever wonder how garment manufacturers put in a concealed or invisible zipper? It’s easier than you think. The secret is an Invisible Zipper Foot.
Wait, don’t click away yet. I’m here to tell you that this can be easy AND inexpensive. I may have a nice Bernina invisible zipper foot, but there is an economical way to install an invisible zipper using a foot (affiliate) you can buy costing under $10 {or less at Joann’s with a coupon}. It works as well as my fancy-schmancy foot and fits most machines. I used a foot like this until 5 years ago.
The key to either of these feet {and other manufacturers’ feet} is understanding the basic structure. All invisible zipper feet have grooves on the underside of the foot that allow the zipper coils to slide through smoothly.
The beauty of an invisible zipper foot is the way the coils fit perfectly into the grooves on the sole of the foot. Once in position, the machine needle glides right up to the edge of the zipper coils making for a very straight stitch.
Place the zipper coils in the groove, and set your machine needle in the center position. Slowly, begin stitching; the foot will place the stitching very close to the zipper coils. When you reach the bottom, the foot will not allow you to sew past the zipper pull. Stop, back stitch, and remove from machine.
Repeat on the opposite side.
Use a regular zipper foot to close the seam by stitching past the stopping place. Press open like you would with any regular seam.
You cannot even see the black zipper against the white-ish fabric when the zipper is closed.
The invisible zipper is my preferred zipper. I promise this is easier than you think. To practice, get an invisible zipper and an invisible zipper foot. Cut two pieces of fabric 6″ longer than the zipper and 5″ wide. Set your machine on the longest stitch setting and practice. Rip out, and try again. After 2-3 times, you will have it down.
UPDATE: I recently came across this video from Bernina showing the invisible zipper foot in action.
For more detailed information about inserting an invisible zipper, I highly recommend this FREE Craftsy class. (affiliate)
If you want to read my other posts All About Sewing Machine Feet, click here and scroll to the bottom of the post.
Christi says
July 29, 2013 at 12:36 pmThank you for this. I have a little dress I made for a friend’s daughter (kind of winged it rather than using a pattern) and totally forgot that I’d need a zipper or buttons or something in the back so it would go over her head. Now I need to take out the back seam and add something. I’ve been debating on whether to go with buttons and loop or a zipper. I think I’ll try this and see how it comes out. One of these feet came with my machine, but I didn’t know what it was. Thanks again!
Leslie says
July 29, 2013 at 3:48 pmGreat idea! Keep us posted on how it turns out.
Donna says
July 29, 2013 at 8:19 pmI was going to purchase the Coats and Clark brand on Amazon but after reading the comments I understand why it was only given one star. I may have to get a Bernina one for my Bernina machine. Thank you for the series on machine feet. They have been very helpful.
Leslie says
July 29, 2013 at 8:28 pmI’m glad you are finding the Sewing Machine Feet series useful.
Brenna says
July 30, 2013 at 8:20 pmI just got a new machine, that thankfully can with a lot of new sewing machine feet. Glad I stumbled upon your series from the Inspiration Exchange.
Leslie says
July 30, 2013 at 9:13 pmWhen I first started this series I envisioned people who wanted to get more out of their sewing.
Beth @ Incomplete Guide to Living says
August 5, 2013 at 9:10 amWhat a great tip! I’ve recently inherited a nice sewing machine, and I’m taking on a few projects to try and get used to it! Maybe one day, I’ll be brave enough to try an “invisible zipper”.
Cindy says
August 5, 2013 at 7:28 pmNow I know why I can’t put in a decent invisible zipper! Thanks so much for the info, I will get one of those.
Have a good week!
aeleen says
October 11, 2016 at 11:15 amSo I gather that you have a Bernina machine. Have you used the plastic foot with your Bernina? I have not figured out a way to make it fit, and I’m even thinking about buying the Bernina one. Please advice
Leslie says
October 11, 2016 at 6:25 pmI recommend only using Bernina Feet on a Bernina machine. I’ve used their invisible zipper foot and it works great every time.
carol Brown says
April 16, 2017 at 5:09 pmI have the Bernina invisible zipper foot . I have used it before for beautiful zippers.
I am sewing on a heavy Pique and it gathers the fabric and stalls.
CAn you tell me what I am doing wrong?
Leslie says
April 17, 2017 at 9:10 amWithout seeing the project it’s difficult for me to diagnose the problem. However, pique is probably not the best fit for an invisible zipper. You may want to try another option.