Today, I conclude this short series on Sewing with Knits. So far we’ve discussed Intro to Sewing with Knits , Details to Sewing with Knits, and Sewing a Knit T-Shirt.
There really is so much more that I could say on the subject of Sewing with Knits; however, I’d have to dedicate this entire blog to that topic. Instead, I want to share with you a few projects that I’ve completed and then give you a call to action.
For my shirt projects I used one pattern and then altered it to suit my desires. The pattern (which, sadly, is out of print) is KwikSew 2900. Don’t despair if you want to make a t-shirt. KwikSew has a similar pattern (K3766) and, literally, every pattern company has something that would work. I’ve also heard good things about Pamela’s Pattern’s T-Shirt which is designed for real women (and has an optional dvd).
I’ve had my pattern for a few years and I’ve got the fit down which makes it easy for me to change. Once you have a pattern you can work with the rest is a breeze.
For all three of my t-shirts I used the same pattern, but made a few alterations.
The first shirt is made from heather gray interlock that I purchased for around $5/yard at Joann’s. I altered the sleeve length and the shirt length. I used the same fabric for my neckband because it makes it faster to sew and doesn’t require trying to find a coordinating ribbing.
This is my standard workhorse t-shirt. I would use this design for utilitarian shirts {think yard work}. Nothing fancy, just simple and practical. And, if it get’s destroyed while painting ~ no great loss.
Same pattern, different look. I took my same KwikSew pattern but this time I paired it with a jersey print from my KnitFix box from Girl Charlee. I created a 3/4 length sleeve and made the shirt slightly longer. I intend to wear this shirt with straight leg jeans.
Notice how nicely the jersey drapes compared to the interlock above (which just hangs). That’s why I love jersey ~ it’s so flattering. As long as there is enough fabric to keep it from grabbing, jersey will fall from the shoulders and hang beautifully.
For the neckband, I used the same fabric. When I talked about Sewing a T-Shirt, I mentioned that using the same fabric for the neckband dresses up the top. Using ribbing would’ve made it way too casual. I’m thinking of pairing this with my Serger Vest and straight leg jeans.
Note: I will discuss these coral britches below.
Same pattern again. This time I made the shirt long enough to cover my hips in order to wear it with leggings and boots. I also made full-length sleeves.
Oh, and I added a yoke in the front and the back (more on this below).
For my fabrics I used a lightweight interlock for the collar band, yoke, and sleeves which I purchased a Joann’s for 40% off. The body of the shirt is a jersey that came in my KnitFix box from Girl Charlee.
This top is actually my muslin for the pattern alteration. I intended to take some black Ponte de Roma and a Ponte print that I had on hand and make my real shirt. However, I love this one, so it’s a keeper. There is a slight alteration to the upper sleeve (notice how it’s pretty baggy in the upper arms), but that won’t stop me from wearing this top.
Some things to note: Using the interlock on the top gives the shirt a little more weight than the full jersey version above. I think that this helps the top hang even better. By creating a yoke from interlock and then attaching the jersey above the bust, it has the perfect drape.
Because I want to wear this design with leggings, using a slightly heavier fabric would be in order. This is where the Ponte de Roma would work best. It has the drape of jersey and the weight of interlock. It is ideally suited for things like leggings, tunics, or dresses. Once you’ve mastered interlock and jersey I highly encourage you to try out the Ponte.
Now for the yoke. I’ve been seeing a lot t-shirts with yoke-ish options. You know ~ there are ones with lace yokes on top. Some have a simple yoke and then gathering or a pleat for the shirt body. Don’t even get me started on those high (in the front) and long (in the back) hemlines. Options everywhere.
I looked for a pattern with a yoke and this is the only one I could find. Simplicity 1333 which I got for $1 at Joanns.
Rather than reinvent the wheel, I unfolded the Simplicity pattern and measured the yoke length. That’s it. Using these measurements I altered my pattern.
Here’s how I altered my pattern:
On the front and back of my pattern I marked the yoke length and then drew two lines 1/4″ apart. KwikSew patterns use a 1/4″ seam allowance so this gives me a cutting line and a seam allowance. I think this area needs a slight adjustment and suspect that this is where the baggy upper sleeve originated.
Place the pattern paper on top of original and trace out the yoke. In these photos I’m tracing the back. Be sure to do the same thing for the front.
Fold away the yoke portion then cut out the body of the top.
Cut out the yoke in a coordinating solid fabric.
The additional steps it took to create my yoke were a non-event. It took a few minutes to measure, trace, and cut out the new pattern pieces. Of course, this is due to the fact that I had already made this pattern numerous times.
Now, about those coral pants. Remember in this post I mentioned I wanted to make some knit pants from Vogue 8859. I like this pattern because it has some back details like a yoke and pockets.
It also has more forward side seams. This can be a nice look for stretch pants. I had this coral stretch twill fabric that I got who knows where. It had the right amount of stretch for the pattern and I decided to use it for my pattern muslin.
{Sheesh! These look like old lady pants, but they are really cute on!} And, the pockets really are even, I promise.
These pants would be considered a leggings-skinny pant. Like most leggings they have elastic in the waist, but the forward side seams and back detail give them a pants appearance, too. I think they are ideal for stretchy denim as well as medium weight interlock or ponte. They are skinny enough to wear tucked into boots, but also loose enough to wear with flats. And they aren’t so tight that they are indecent {which I saw a lot of at DisneyWorld recently}. I plan to make several pairs for the spring to wear with longer tunics (which would be ideal out of ponte).
Now, it’s time for you to Sew with Knits. I cannot possibly cover everything there is to know about this subject, but I hope I’ve given you enough information to take away the knit fear and tackle a few projects.
If you want more detailed information, I recommend taking a Craftsy Class. Below I’ve listed a few that are excellent choices for improving your skills with knits. (affiliate links)
Remember, Craftsy is always adding classes, be sure to sign up for their newsletters and receive discounts.
The Ultimate T-Shirt: Fitting and Construction
Love the longer top, Im not confident enough to try stretch fabrics ut you make it look so easy :0)
Try a few practice shirts. You will be amazed at how easy it really is.
Sometimes I can’t find rib to match my fabric. How do I lay out the fabric for the neckband if I use the same fabric? Do I need to put it on the bias?
No need to put the knit on the bias. Just layout your fabric like it is a woven and place the neckband on the fold (which is how most patterns show).
Gee, I enjoyed reading this post. I love the legging you made, but i wish you would show the back on YOU to get a feel for how they really fit. I might consider making those. It’s also hard to tell where the waist falls. You look fabulous in all the colours and styles.
A BIG Thank-you for this series! I’ve actually been sewing with knits for a long time (over 40 years….YIKES!), but thought I’d follow along for some pointers I might not know. LOVE the tip of using a walking foot! It’s AWESOME! AND. One I’d never heard. Thanks again Leslie!
I love your sewing knits projects, especially the blue and pink! Thanks for the tutorial on adjusting a pattern, very useful and I have it bookmarked. 🙂
Is the Maxi-Lock stretch thread used for general machine purpose or sergers?
Yes, it works on both. That’s why it’s so awesome!
KwikSew 2900 is available for download at sewingpatterns.com. Thanks for these posts on sewing with knits! I have sewn tee shirts with a straight stitch, it was OK. However will try your suggestions, and look forward to the results!
Thanks for the update. Great news!
When you suggest using a zigzag stitch for your knits, are you using a more open or closed zigzag? Would you say the zigzag is as close to a straight stitch as you can make it without losing the zigzag effect?
Both are true. There is the lightening bolt zigzag that is on a lot of newer machines. That is best for knits, but you can use a regular zigzag using your machine’s default setting and it will work, too.
Any idea how to attach a ribbed waistband to a pair of polar fleece type shorts? Also I need to apply a knit binding as a hem onto the shorts. My daughter saw a pair of these and asked me to duplicate.? I’m afraid of the binding and the ribbed waistband. I do have a serger so could probably attach the waistband with that. I just don’t know if it would allow enough stretch…any suggestions would be so greatly appreciated!!
Great questions. Unfortunately, I cannot answer these questions without doing a tutorial. I suggest you look on YouTube for a video demonstration. I’m sure at least one exists.
i love your website and am developing a crush on you! you make everything easier and have a terrific sense of style and humor. i have been sewing for about 2 years and have made some knit items with some success. i am a nurse anesthetist and sew when i am not working. love 10 ways to find more sewing time! i sew for my daughter and my family but not enough for myself. thanks for all your great advice.