Sewing an Ottobre Pattern Part 2

Today I’m following up on Sewing an Ottobre Pattern Part 2. To read the first part of this series, go to Sewing an Ottobre Pattern.

Let me first say this:  I love sewing Ottobre patterns ~ Now for the nitty gritty.

Sizing:

Well, this one will continue to be a challenge because my body is in inches not centimeters {or is it possible that I have a problem with metric conversions}. I had measured myself according to the pattern and thought I had selected the correct size. Well, I was wrong-o and had to go back and retrace a smaller size. #stillseeinggreenlines

The first muslin was so huge I could’ve sneaked a small second person in there and no one would’ve notice. Fortunately, I make muslins in a basting stitch and it popped apart quickly. I placed the newly resized pattern pieces over the old muslin, cut, and resewed. It was an inconvenience, but really a non-event. Plus, I feel like I got a little better at understanding the pattern tracing in an Ottobre pattern.

On practically every pattern I ever sew I have several adjustments that have to be made.

1. It has to be shortened at the hem ~ this pattern shorted easily.
2. No matter how good I am at choosing the correct size for around my neck and shoulders, I always have to take it in a bit at the shoulder or else the sleeve seam will hang off my shoulder. This pattern has gathering on the front, so it was only a matter of adjusting the shoulder seams on the back yoke and taking out some of the gathering. #pieceofcake
3. The keyhole opening in the front was way too low for my comfort. As in, I can see all the way down to Chinatown. I adjusted this after making the muslin. In this picture you can see it is better. I will raise this again for any future tops with this pattern.

Sewing:

The fabric I used in this top was a Lisette cotton voile I found at Joann’s in the clearance section for $2/yard. I would consider this top a wearable muslin. As in, I will wear it around the house, but it is not a quality top. Notice the hem. The fabric has a flower stripe and the hem on the pattern curves. It’s pretty obvious in the picture.

The back of the pattern has a yoke. I.Love.A.Yoked.Shirt. Yes, I do. It also has a little gathering where the yoke and the back connect. This makes the shirt nice and flowy without being bulky and tent-like. Factor in the voile fabric and I think it will be quite comfortable to wear during when the weather is between sort of cool and feels like Hades. The voile will breathe, but I will still have sleeves. I can also wear a camisole with the top which will stretch out the wearing season.

Again, notice how the stripe is off where the back and yoke connect. There is a slight arch in the pattern and I think any sort of horizontal strip would be unsuitable for this pattern. The curve of the yoke and back pieces are what give the pattern its nice drape.

The pattern is designed to have a 3/4 sleeve with a buttoned cuff. I didn’t want a cuff and I didn’t want to make buttonholes. Instead, I shortened the sleeve about 2″ and used elastic. I like to push my sleeves up and this will be comfortable and still look nice. Opting out of the cuff/buttonhole thing makes sewing this pattern pretty fast.

Many of you may have never made a yoked top before. This pattern includes one of my favorite techniques for enclosing the yoke seams. After you’ve done this once, it will be a breeze.

You cut out two yokes. Where the back and yoke seams connect, sandwich the back between the two yokes and pin yokes to back so that the yokes are right sides together and stitch.

Here’s another picture to show you ~ I’ve placed a piece of white tissue paper so you can see better.

Now for the tricky part ~ and this must be done exactly right or you and your seam ripper will be spending some quality time together. With right sides together, pin the front to the OUTSIDE YOKE.

In order to get that clean finished seam on the inside you are going to roll up the front and back fabrics like an enchilada. Then wrap the other yoke OVER this and pin to outside yoke, right sides together.

When done correctly, the two yokes will be pinned right sides together. Stitch the shoulder seams and then pull out the rolled up fabric. The best demonstration of this is found in Kwik Sew patterns that have a yoked back.

This is what the shirt should look like from the outside ~ except for the stripy fabric not matching ~

And this is what it should look like on the inside. The seams are now enclosed and the yoke is ready to be top stitched.

The sleeves are pretty standard. I like to do set in sleeves because it looks nicer when you are wearing it and I think the sleeves are more comfortable. I also made a bias tape for the neckline. Don’t be afraid to try this ~ it’s easier than you think. I also have a tutorial on attaching bias tape if you don’t feel confident with this technique.

Overall, I am pleased with my top and plan to make one or two more for the transitional season. There is a contrasting placket that goes around the keyhole opening in the front. The pattern calls for trimming it in mini-piping. Instead, I was thinking of turning it in on the next top and just top stitching around it. Otherwise, I would need a coordinating fabric and that is sometimes hard to find. On this top, I used the same fabric so you can’t really see it. Also, the pattern calls for interfacing of the placket. I used the same fabric for the interfacing so it wouldn’t be bulky.

Overall, I am pleased with the outcome of this top and will definitely make more. I need to retrace my pattern pieces and then I can count this one as tried and true.