How to Make a Muslin

A few days after I return from vacation I am scheduled to take a fitting class with Paul Gallo (affiliate link). It’s called {and you are going to love this} Fitting Muslins and Exploring Style Lines to Flatter All Shapes. Exactly, what sewing woman wouldn’t want to take this class? It’s about time I learn How to Make a Muslin.

Here’s what I’ll be learning:

Attendees will learn how to accent the curves of their bodies using techniques for darts, tucks, style lines and ease to create a relaxed but elegant fit from a master draper who has been making clothes since 1981. When working with individuals, he will also be discussing color, proportion and many visual tricks to maximize the beauty of the unique person. Everybody has something special!

I will be in a class with seven other people and this is what we will be doing:

The attendee will bring in a prepared muslin and be fitted into it by Paul. It can be pants, skirt, blouse, jacket, dress, wedding gown….it does not matter to him! When working with individuals, in addition to providing expert draping and fitting guidance, he will be discussing color, proportion, and many visual tricks to maximize the person’s beauty.

Did you catch the part about me needing to bring a prepared muslin. I need to find a pattern and make it into a muslin. I chose McCall’s pattern M6750 because it has several waist darts. It’s also a Palmer-Pletsch pattern with fitting instructions.

All this talk about making a muslin got me thinking about muslins, in general ~ what they actually are and why they are so important to garment sewing.

A muslin (sometimes called a toile) is a mock up of a pattern using only key pattern pieces such as the front, back, sleeves, yokes, etc. The real purpose of a muslin is to see how the pattern fits your body and then make adjustments. Since most patterns aren’t designed for one specific individual it’s reasonable to think that some fitting alterations will have to take place. It’s all about getting the pattern to fit you.

These are my instructions for making my muslin:

The muslin being fitted should be too big so it can be draped on the person easily, with seams stitched in a basting size with seam allowances on the outside of the garment. The muslin can be woven or with stretch. All seams must be backstitched at the beginning and end so as not to come apart during the draping/fitting process. It will need the zipper or buttons that will be in the final garment. People will need to wear undergarments that can be pinned or clipped to and shoes with a heel height that is similar to what will be worn with the garment, as this affects the tilt of the grain line in the fabric.

Time to get to work. Here are a few must-haves for making a muslin:

• Muslin (duh!). I usually purchase mine at Joann’s by the bolt when there is a 50% off sale. I like to get a decent quality ~ not something that is a close cousin to cheesecloth. However, if you are wanting to make a master muslin of something like a bodice or pants then I would suggest getting Kona muslin.
• Tracing Paper – I like to use this waxy tracing paper from Richard the Thread. If you give them a call you can order it by the sheet. The chalky tracing paper will work if that’s all you can find.
• Colored Pencils – I use these to trace the cutting lines on the paper pattern. They can get so confusing sometimes.
• Dressmaker’s Ruler – This ruler is broken down into 1/8″ increments which are so handy when tracing patterns. (affiliate link)
• Tracing Wheel – I use two different kinds. A Smooth or Blunt Edge Tracing Wheel and a Needle Point Tracing Wheel. (affiliate links)
• Sewing machine, scissors, pins, threads, iron, ironing board, etc.

I rarely cut out a pattern. Instead I transfer it to Swedish Tracing Paper (affiliate link). Another option would be medical table paper which is really cheap. I lay the Swedish pattern paper on my table then put the tracing paper on top with the transfer side facing the pattern paper. Next, I lay the pattern on top and trace with the blunt tracing wheel. I use a colored pencil to transfer any markings. Then I cut out my pattern pieces.

The instructions for my muslin say I need to sew my muslin with the seams out, using the longest stitch available. This makes sense because Paul Gallo will likely want to pop open seams. This is my finished muslin. I have the sleeves ready to attach, but I wasn’t sure if they needed to be done yet. Currently, I have one off and one on.

The next phase will be evaluating the fit. Since this will be done in my class it is important to have all of the markings on my muslin. Notice the vertical lines that come down from the shoulder and go through the waist darts. Those are on the front and the back and are built into the pattern. They allow for adding or reducing. There are similar lines from the armsyce to the bust darts which will allow for adding or reducing.

Some things to note on this muslin. The bust darts are practically at the waist of my mannequin. While on me they are a little better, this is definitely something that will need adjusting. In order to get the pattern size to fit over my hips I had to jump up two sizes which made the upper portion of the blouse H.U.G.E. This is always my problem with tops ~ if it fits in the shoulders it doesn’t fit at the hips. It it fits over the hips it’s too big across the shoulders and back.

Hence, the reason I am taking this class and why I am registered for another fitting class with Sarah Veblen in September. While it sounds crazy to take all of these classes, Besty recently shared a story from a lady she met at a fitting class. The woman’s garments fit her to perfection ~ the reason ~ she’s been regularly taking fitting classes for years and years.

I think that’s the secret. You don’t learn it all at once, but with enough time and practice you will get it.

At least I hope so.