I am writing this post from the Edge of Tomorrow ~ practically. At this moment I am writing from Newfoundland ~ a place that was never on my radar until my daughter B and her family were transferred here a few months ago. The only other time I took a slight notice was when I saw the movie, The Shipping News ~ which I highly recommend.
To get here was a feat of phenomenal proportions. The cost for an airline ticket from Austin to St. John’s is pretty steep; however, we had some credit card points which made it possible. Still getting here wasn’t easy. Notice that Newfoundland is an island (translation: cha-ching).
To get from my house in Austin, Texas to Clarenville, Newfoundland was a three day trip. Clarenville is about halfway between St. John’s (where we landed) and Gander. On this map it is about 20 miles south of Terra Nova National Park.
Here’s how it shakes out.
Day One: Drive to Dallas because we couldn’t afford two airline tickets from Austin. It was cheaper to stay overnight at a hotel in the DFW complex. Plus, only one connection. This will become important as you read more.
Day Two: Fly from Dallas to Newark, then while in Newark, try to find something gluten-free in the Newark airport.
We had a four hour layover so we sat and stared at Manhattan. So close….
There is only one daily flight from a US airport to St. John’s, Newfoundland and if you miss it you have to wait until the next day. I later found out that occasionally the plane has to turn around and go back to Newark if the wind is too strong to land in Newfoundland (and it kind of is). Fortunately, we made it. After customs, luggage, and a rental car we headed to our hotel. Had we connected through Toronto or another large Canadian city it would’ve been a different story – but the cost was way, way more than we could afford.
Day Three: Drive 2.5 hours down the T.C.H. (TransCanadian Highway) from St. John’s to Clarenville where my daughter and her family live. This was a beautiful drive and I felt a little like I was traveling through Middle Earth ~ except we had to watch closely for moose ~ which are a real problem here. There were (of course) heavy winds, sunshine, rain, dense fog, more rain, then sunshine. Totally worth the drive.
Once we finally arrived we were greeting by this view from my daughter’s back deck. Pretty much everyone in Clarenville has a similar view. Ah!
Newfoundland is a beautiful island and I hope many of you will get the opportunity to see this pristine place. Of course, our real reason for going is to see our daughter and her family. My sweet little granddaughter is about to have her first birthday and this is what motivated us to make this trip.
After doing a little research I found out that we might be able to see some pretty amazing natural features such as icebergs, whales, and puffins. This is the Newfoundland trifecta. We were told that July is pretty late for icebergs; whales don’t usually come close to land; and puffin sitings are rare. Oh, well we were there to really see family and anything else would be a bonus.
Our first full day we all decided to take a hike up Bare Mountain in Clarenville {with Baby Girl in the Ergo carrier}. We would be able to see all around the area. It was warm and sunny. Perfect for a short hike. You can see that Clarenville is remote and at the end of an inlet.
Pretty much every Newfoundland town or village is on some sort of cove, inlet, or natural harbor. The island has a long history with the sea. Seeing Clarenville from this height put it all in perspective.
The next day my B and Mr. B suggested we drive to an area on the Bonavista peninsula called Trinity. It is an old, preserved village. What a great place – lots of preserved buildings and history everywhere.
I was completely struck by the graveyard at the Anglican Church. The headstones were all blown over. This tells you everything about Newfoundland and it’s long, harsh winters. And the wind.
This cemetery is a few steps from an inlet. I have such admiration for people who would stake their claim in this climate.
After visiting Trinity we decided to hike the Skerwink Trail which is near Port Rexton and Trinity. It is considered one of the top 35 trails in North America and Europe. While I was on the trail I had no idea. After getting off the trail I understood. Click on the link and you will understand, too.
The first part of the trail is a pleasant hike with lots of birds, trees, and flowers.
In Newfoundland you really never know what is around the next corner, cove, or mountain. I’m telling you that there is so much beauty it is almost more that I could take in. It looks tame right now, but I assure you those working lighthouses dotting the coast serve a real purpose and aren’t pretty tourist attractions
For such an amazingly beautiful place we were struck by how uncrowded everything was. We would pass a few people on the trail, but really we had the place to ourselves. Like I said earlier – The Edge of Tomorrow.
Once we got to the coastal part of the trail we started seeing all sorts of rock formations.
Notice the small village in the background. These little communities were all over the coastline.
You can see from our photos that the sky is almost clear and that made the water this breath-taking deep blue color. I know our pictures don’t even come close to portraying this.
The icebergs pass along the Newfoundland coast along something called the Labrador Currents. Sometimes they don’t get anywhere near this close to land. We were so fortunate to have seen this.
They look kind of dinky in this pictures ~ think in terms of a house or two sitting out in the water.
Here’s a better picture of the scale. Notice the humpback whale in the photo in relation to the iceberg.
I tell you, it was like I had died and gone to Heaven. To see icebergs and whales together. We will just call that a great, big check on my Bucket List.
Another place we thought we’d visit was the town of Bonavista where John Cabot is recognized for landing in 1497. Whether or not this is the exact spot where Cabot landed, it is certain that he and his men spent some time in the area. Whenever I’m in an area of great historical significance I want to see it.
You can see that Bonavista is pretty close to Clarenville and all of those little towns and villages like Newmans Cove look like something from a movie. If you look on the map you can see Trinity East ~ which is where the Skerwink Trail is located. Now look to the point of the peninsula and see Cape Bonavista ~ because it juts out into the Atlantic it is a lot more rugged and weathered. It wasn’t too hard to imagine huge waves crashing against these rocks.
Again, no crowds ~ just a few people scattered about checking it out.
It’s pretty isolated out here compared to the town of Trinity. There aren’t very many trees and you can see how barren it is.
The historic (and still operating) lighthouse on the end of the peninsula makes perfect sense when you are standing there.
When we were in Bonavista we kept seeing signs for the Puffin Festival. Since it was just down the road, we headed to Elliston. The Puffin Festival had ended the day before, but that didn’t mean the puffins were gone.
This was such a cool place ~ there was an actual beach (with people down there getting into the freezing cold Atlantic) and some cliffs. We parked and started walking out onto one of the cliffs where we saw a few people. We hiked to the end of point and then across the point was another cliff with puffins and seagulls. The cliffs were pretty far apart, but I had my binoculars which allowed me to watch their activity. As an amateur bird watcher, I have to say, this was a pretty big deal. Like, when am I ever going to see a puffin again? {you will have to squint to see the birds)
Our last day in Newfoundland had us heading back to St. John’s. We wanted to see a few of the local sites before catching a plane home the next day. St. John’s is the largest city in Newfoundland and has lots of historical significance. It has this hidden harbor with a signal tower at the top. No one is getting in or out of the port without being seen. This photo was taken from the top of Signal Hill.
Signal Hill is at the top of the inlet and this became extremely important during WWII. They were able to see anything approaching their harbor and they were also able to send radio signals back to England. I had never considered this before, but Newfoundland was vital in keeping the Nazi’s from launching an invasion in N. America.
We didn’t want to leave Newfoundland without making one last stop ~ the Eastern most point in N. America. The next stop is England.
St. John’s (and most of Newfoundland) has the most colorful houses. In every village or town on the Bonavista Peninsula houses were all painted in these bright colors. I scanned this postcard to show you what I’m talking about. St. John’s is historically a fishing city. When sea captains returned from a voyage they were faced with rows and rows of identical Victorian row houses. In order to easily find their homes after returning from sea they were painted these vibrant colors.
Before heading off to our hotel to get ready for the flight(s) home we stopped in downtown St. John’s for some traditional Newfoundland food. I had to try Poutine. A perfect meal to end our trip.
There is so much more I can say about this amazing place. Friendly people, a unique dialect, and beauty as far as the eye could see.
Like no place on earth.
{Psst. I’m back home in Texas…and it only took two days to get home}
Update: A reader from Quebec sent these links to share.
Wow! What a trip. Thank you so much for the lovely pictures, the history lessons, a peak into your personal life ( Happy First Birthday, sweet little girl), and an opportunity to view yet another place I never really thought about till now. This age of computers (the world at our fingertips) is pretty amazing! Thanks for sharing a piece of your life to enlighten a piece of my life. I sincerely enjoy your blog.
Incredibly beautiful – thank you for sharing.
How lovely. Shipping News is a wonderful book and movie as well. So different from Texas. Glad you got the opportunity to visit such a beautiful place and see your family, tho in winter…brrrr.
Welcome home. 🙂
Wow Leslie. Thanks so much for this wonderful post. I so enjoy all your blog and newsletter posts about sewing and homemaking — this was a real bonus. Thank you for taking the time to share this wonderful place with us. Great photos!
Loved reading about your trip to Newfoundland and beautiful pictures. We travelled there a few years back and brought back some great memories. Discovered you as you linked up my Poutine recipe. Glad you had a chance to experience that in Newfoundland as well. Did you get a chance to try Newfie Fries? It’s fries and gravy, but with bread stuffing instead of cheese curds. Darned good too 🙂
No Newfie fries as it is likely not gluten-free. If you have a recipe, send it my way and I can try converting it to GF. But, I’m still have visions of Poutine….
Beautiful and fascinating. I had never known anything about Newfoundland until reading your descriptions, enjoying you’re photos and now looking up it up in the web! I think it just made my Bucket List too. Thank you for sharing!!
Loved seeing the photos and hearing about your travels. Makes me want to go, especially now that we’re approaching August in Austin! Looked and sounded like an incredible adventure. Thanks for the very interesting and entertaining post.
Fun trip, Leslie! I wondered why y’all went all the way up there! Perhaps some time in the future, y’all can meet up in Nova Scotia to explore our “homeland.” Also very beautiful country.
What a beautiful place!
Wow beautiful photo’s, what amazing scenery. I hope I have the privilege to visit there one day, it looks stunning. #Saygdayparty
Looks like an awesome place to visit! Maybe windy but beautiful! Who knew it would be so complicated to get there?!?
Wow, what breathtaking photos. I would love to see that someday. I can’t wait to show my husband your pictures. Thank you for sharing !
I read here frequently, and rarely comment…but…wow, lovely pictures!!!
I’m Canadian…from New Brunswick originally (Ontario is home now)…and just this summer got to visit Newfoundland for the first time. I got to accompany my husband on a work trip to Saint John’s for 2.5 days. I LOVED it. We got to see some icebergs as well…we drove over to Cape Spear and got to see quite a few. What is amazing is knowing that what you see is only 10% of the whole size of the thing. We really loved our time there, although it was the 2nd time there for hubby…1st time for him was February…driving in Saint John’s in a blizzard and no winter tires on the rental car, gulp!
You are right, the dialect in Newfoundland is very unique. Certain parts have a more Irish lilt, and some have ties to dialects from areas in England…ties to the “Old Country” going back to when Newfoundland was settled. It’s very interesting.
Signal Hill is also significant because the first trans-Atlantic wireless transmission was received there by Marconi (yes, THE Marconi), in 1901.
Hubby and I would love to get back to Newfoundland someday…we loved it so much.
Absolutely love your post and photos!
As a Canadian who has lived as far east as Anne of Green Gables’ Prince Edward Island, I am familiar with the charming coloured houses and Eastern accents! But the beauty of heights and history you’ve shown are a treat! thank you =)
and every good wish for the wee miss =)
my grandson was 1 in June, so I know the thrills of this new adventure…
What a beautiful trip and place to visit. Thank you for taking us on the journey. Beautiful photo’s too!
Pinned!
xoxo
Wanda Ann @ Memories by the Mile
Ahhh…thank you for the virtual tour, you got some great photos! Newfoundland is the only province I have yet to visit, and I hope to get there soon!
This looks like an awsome place to go.
OhMyGoodness, I was so excited to see a post about Newfoundland! I spent 2 weeks traveling all over the island back in 2001 and have never met someone else who’s actually been there (not even any of my Canadian friends!) I think it’s one of North America’s greatest secrets and I’m so glad you got to experience some of what it has to offer!
Gorgeous photos! I didn’t realize how breathtakingly beautiful Newfoundland is! I would have been so excited to see the whale with the icebergs too! Thanks so much for linking up and sharing your photos- it made me feel like I got to see it with you!
-S.L. Payne, uncommongrace.net
Reading this post was SO AWESOME!! Newfoundland is my home province and it’s beauty touches my soul every time I step outside! It’s wild and free, warm and welcoming. It follows it’s soul and not typical tourist cultures! I love that you had a great trip! If you get a chance to visit again, head to the west coast and Gros Morne National Park and the Tableland mountains. You will truly feel like you have stepped out of your life and into a page of JRR Tolkin’s!
P.S. Our signature dish?! Home fries (potatoes lightly fried), stuffing or dressing (breadcrumbs, savory, onion and butter), and home style gravy (some people will add ground meat as well)…delish!!!
OooH, it sounds relish!
My family randomly ended up in Newfoundland during a camping trip when I was in elementary school. We had been camping in Canada (I was obsessed with Anne of Green Gables so we visited PEI) and ended up taking the ferry from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland. We got to see the icebergs, and the puffins, and went whale watching – it was amazing! We ate wedgies, and my mom ordered fried Cod tongue in St. John’s. It is the most unique place I have ever visited and I’ve always wanted to go back, even more now after seeing your beautiful pictures! So glad I found your post at the Eat. Create. Party! linkup!
Leslie…thank you for sharing a beautiful trip! The furthest east I’ve been is Nova Scotia…also gorgeous.
I’m having trouble attempting to describe the feelings your wonderful pictures have initiated. Such a haunting, beautiful place . . . leaves one nearly breathless AND speechless.
Fabulous pictures and story! My hubby and I are going to Newfoundland in a couple of weeks!! We will be going to Maine then driving north and across and then taking the ferry. We are going to be on the western side of the island (not enough time to get to the east side). We’ll be celebrating 30 years of marriage with this trip. I’ve been in all 50 states and 9 of the provinces so this has been on my bucket list for awhile now. Hoping for some glorious fall foliage. 🙂
What a wonderful story! I am originally from Clarenville, NL & miss it every moment of everyday. I had the pleasure of visiting your beautiful state in 2000! My best friend, also from Clarenville, was nursing in Corpus Christi & married a guy from there! What a wonderful experience! Drinking beer with a bunch of “Newfies” & Texans on the beach, in our swimsuits in May! That does not happen in NL! Had the pleasure of visiting the beautiful city of San Antonio! I was treated like family everywhere I went! A beautiful place that I will never forget! My friend, her husband & their kids have recently moved “home” to Clarenville. Winters were a bit of a shock in the beginning but they’re loving it! Both boys play hockey, an experience they probably wouldn’t have had in Corpus Christi! My friend’s in-laws have been able to experience NL in both summer & winter & loved both their visits! It’s so amazing when two different worlds come together with so much love & respect!
Your trip and photo’s brought back so many memories! I lived in Argentia Newfoundland as a young Navy wife in 1972. We were stationed at the base there in Placentia Bay arriving by ferry from Nova Scotia. My daughter was born in St. John’s Hospital 100 miles away, 41 years ago this coming October 2nd. We spent eight years there total and I have often longed for the remote and wonderful life we lived. At that time there were about 200 families living there. We were very close and felt like one big family. We got to know many people from the surrounding fishing villages. My daughter attended a local school.
It had been a huge military base during WWII. President Roosevelt and Prime Minister Churchill met in the bay and signed the Atlantic Treaty in 1941, Surrounding us were abandoned buildings, underground tunnels and bunkers. We explored them all! My husband, daughter and I were able to fly out on the last plane to use the airstrip there on Naval Station Argentia.
Thank you for bringing us beautiful pictures of how Newfoundland looks now.
Ellie
I visited this post after reading your most recent post on your visit to Newfoundland. What a treasure this province is. The TV ad you attached, the one with the clothesline is wonderful!