Sewing and Fitting a Vogue Pattern

I think most folks never consider tackling a Vogue pattern because they have the reputation of being complicated.  And, don’t get me started on pattern fitting.

I recently saw Vogue 8815 in the Vogue Magazine and thought I’d give it a whirl.  It only has 4 pieces ~ how hard can it be.  I love the peplum ~ it can hide lots of lumps and bumps.

And, truth be told, this is a Very Easy Vogue Pattern that isn’t difficult to sew.  Plus, I got it on sale for $3.99.  I had nothing to lose.

Vogue Patterns

Measurements in hand, I adjusted my pattern and made a muslin.  Then, I adjusted my pattern a second time and remade a muslin.  Then, I adjusted the pattern a third time ~ you guessed it ~ and made a muslin.

That’s 5 days of pattern-adjusting and muslin-making to make a 4-piece pattern.

I had this white fabric that has been in my stash for at least 3 years.  It’s 100% cotton and has miniscule wales.  It is a nice shirting fabric.  I have no idea where I got it.   But, I like the weight of the fabric and thought it would be nice for a summer top.

Before I started making this pattern, I had been watching a Craftsy class on fitting.  I took a way a few fitting tips from the class and applied them to this top.  {Honestly, I need to go back and apply this class to the pattern and get a better handle on fitting.}

On my first muslin, the front fit, but the back was too long.  What did I do?  Why did it fit well in the front but bunch up in the back?  What a crummy pattern ~ oops ~ I-no-thinky-it’s-the-pattern ~ it’s me. Yikes!

After REwatching the class, I realized that I needed to adjust the shoulder seam.  It seems that sitting in front of a computer/sewing machine and blogging about it can affect the posture.   Adjust the fit – not the posture – that’s all it took to get it right.

Vogue Pattern

I like and don’t like the raised waistline.  Because I used white fabric, you can see where the top of my pants and the waistline don’t meet.  I think when I’m wearing this top, it won’t really be an issue ~ I may lower it half an inch next time I make the top.  That aside, I think the raised waistline is more flattering.

The above picture doesn’t really do the fit much justice, but the top is very comfortable through the bust and armholes.  I think that it will be a wonderful top on a hot August day ~ it won’t stick to my skin because there is room to move around ~ but it will still be modest.

Vogue Pattern

Sorry I had to chop off my head in this picture ~ for some reason I was sneering.  But, the picture better shows the fit.  I think it still needs a little tweaking at the shoulder seams and bust darts, but otherwise it’s a keeper.

The pattern calls for a 22″ invisible zipper.  Installing a 22″ zipper would mean that the zipper had to be sewn in below the peplum.  Too much chance for a zipper/seam disaster. Instead, I shortened the zipper above the peplum and kept my perfect peplum seam matching.  It does make it a wee bit tight going over the bust, but nothing too serious.

Vogue Pattern Vogue Pattern 5

Overall, this is an easy pattern to work on fitting.  Four pieces – that’s all.   Check out Pattern Review to see what others have to say.


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    • Leslie says

      I forgot how much I like a peplum. I think I want to drop the waistline at least a 1/2″, but otherwise, love this pattern.

  1. says

    I just made this top yesterday. Here’s the adjustments I needed to make:

    1. Lower the waistline by 1″ (I’m long waisted)
    2. Create large darts on the back shoulders as the fabric floated off my body a little
    3. Lower the neckline a bit
    4. Re-draft the front piece so there was WAY less fabric above the bust. It was HUGE on me in that area. although the bust fit perfectly. I find this a common problem with Vogue patterns and noticed a lot of other sewers who made this pattern also had gaping above the bust. eesh!

    Great job and thanks for sharing! Your hem and bias binding look SO neat!

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